site: reviews — Shanling M0 Pura, Lunacy, Lai Tak Tsuen Estate (graduate from finds)
Three graduations, and the fact-check earned its keep on every one. Shanling M0 Pura (music): the 250mW balanced figure needs an adapter Shanling sells separately — out of the box it is 100mW, on a single 3.5mm jack. The 'cannot stream' pitch holds (no Wi-Fi, no apps) but the review declines to sell the myth: Bluetooth-receiver mode will happily play your phone's Spotify. Read alongside the existing Zenteek review — the same argument with a battery in it. Lunacy (play): runs the original unmodified After Dark module, not a reimplementation — confirmed. Corrects the find's attribution of More After Dark to Apple (it was Berkeley Systems) and disambiguates Jeff Halter, who made Lunacy, from Ben Haller, who wrote Lunatic Fringe in 1991. Ships no game data; you supply your own copy. Same developer as the Stacks HyperCard player, which is the actual story. Lai Tak Tsuen Estate (places — new category): the find was substantially wrong and both it and this morning's bundle have been corrected in place. Not two 1975 towers but four cylinders across two twin-cylinder blocks, completed 1976. And access is not 'a guard checks resident cards' — there are coded gates and posted notices prohibiting entry and photography, put up because the Ghost in the Shell shoot turned a residential estate into a backdrop. The bundle no longer invites anyone through the gate, and this is emphatically not the pick.
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title: "Not built to be visited"
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date: 2026-07-14
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tags: [daily-finds, travel, architecture]
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description: "Three places that were never meant to be destinations — a housing estate, an industrial ruin, a neighborhood hill — and reward the detour anyway."
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blurb: "A home, a workplace, and a hill. None of them was built for you."
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description: "Three places that were never meant to be destinations — an industrial ruin, a neighborhood hill, and a housing estate that has had to ask photographers to stay out."
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blurb: "A workplace, a hill, and a home. None of them was built for you."
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items:
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- lai-tak-tsuen-estate
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- hoffmann-lime-kilns
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- grand-view-park-turtle-hill
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- lai-tak-tsuen-estate
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---
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> Today's catch is three places nobody designed for visitors. One is still somebody's apartment building, one burned limestone for sixty-six years, and one is just the hill at the end of a residential street — and each is worth the climb precisely because it was built for something other than being looked at.
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> Today's catch is three places nobody designed for visitors. One burned limestone for sixty-six years and is now a free, signposted walk through its own ruins. One is just the hill at the end of a residential street, and you earn the view up five minutes of stairs. And one is a Hong Kong housing estate so astonishing from the inside that the people who live there have had to post notices asking photographers to stop coming in — which makes it the clearest case of the three: a place can be worth knowing about without being yours to walk into.
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@@ -1,14 +1,15 @@
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---
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name: "Lai Tak Tsuen Estate"
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subtitle: "Twin 1975 towers built around a dizzying open-air circular atrium"
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subtitle: "Four 1976 concrete drums, each hollow to the sky"
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date: 2026-07-14
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shortlist: true
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link: "https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/lai-tak-tsuen"
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linkText: "atlasobscura.com"
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source: "Atlas Obscura"
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promotedTo: lai-tak-tsuen-estate
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topics: [travel-and-places, design-and-art]
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tags: [hong-kong, public-housing, architecture, film-location]
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description: "Two 1975 Hong Kong public-housing towers in Tai Hang built around open-air circular atria that run unobstructed from the ground-floor courtyard to the sky, doubling as a filming location in Ghost in the Shell (2017)."
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description: "A Hong Kong Housing Society estate in Tai Hang whose two twin-cylinder blocks enclose four open-air atria running the full 27 storeys to the sky — a Ghost in the Shell (2017) location that is also, firmly, someone's home."
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---
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Two nearly identical 1975 public-housing towers in Tai Hang, each built around an open-air circular atrium that runs unobstructed from the ground-floor courtyard to the sky — stand in the middle and look straight up, and the ring of balconies spirals into a dizzying, almost hypnotic pattern. The cylindrical design made it a natural fit for the sci-fi look of Ghost in the Shell (2017), which filmed a scene in the atrium. It's still a lived-in Housing Society estate with a guard checking resident cards at the entrance, so visitors are limited to the ground-floor courtyard and should keep noise and camera use to a minimum — it's someone's home, not an attraction.
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Two of Lai Tak Tsuen's blocks are twin cylinders — a pair of joined concrete drums apiece, four in all — and each drum is hollow, its 27 storeys of access balconies ringing an open-air atrium that runs uninterrupted to the sky. The shape was not a flourish: announced in 1969 and delayed three years by a landslide on the steep Tai Hang slope, the drum packs flats onto a small hillside footprint while giving a deep plan its own light-and-air well. It was finished in 1976 by the Hong Kong Housing Society, and it is still full of people who live there — coded gates and posted notices now prohibit entering or photographing the blocks without permission, put up precisely because the *Ghost in the Shell* (2017) shoot and the photographers who followed it turned a residential estate into a backdrop. The view up the drum is extraordinary. It is also not yours to walk into.
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@@ -6,6 +6,7 @@ shortlist: true
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link: "https://morphing.cloud/lunacy/"
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linkText: "morphing.cloud"
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source: "Daring Fireball — Linked List"
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promotedTo: lunacy
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topics: [macos-apps, history-and-archives]
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tags: [game, screensaver, retro, free]
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description: "A native Swift player that runs Lunatic Fringe, the interactive After Dark space-shooter screensaver from the early '90s, unmodified on modern macOS."
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@@ -10,6 +10,7 @@ amazonLink: "https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GZ8HXF48"
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topics: [music-and-sound, gadgets-and-toys]
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tags: [audio, dac, hi-res, no-streaming]
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description: "A matchbox-sized dedicated music player with dual Cirrus Logic DACs, a microSD slot for ripped files, and no streaming apps at all."
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promotedTo: shanling-m0-pura
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---
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Two Cirrus Logic CS43131 DACs drive a fully balanced output — up to 100mW single-ended or 250mW balanced into 32 ohms — inside a body that weighs 35.8g and measures 43.8 x 45 x 13.8mm. There's no Spotify, no app store, nothing to subscribe to: music comes from a microSD card (up to 2TB) loaded with ripped CDs or FLAC files, over a USB-DAC connection, or via two-way Bluetooth 5.0 with LDAC and aptX. A 650mAh battery rates 9.5 hours of continuous playback on the 1.54-inch touchscreen.
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---
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name: "Lai Tak Tsuen Estate"
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subtitle: "Hong Kong's only cylindrical public housing — four 1976 drums around open-air atria, and still someone's home"
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date: 2026-07-14
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category: places
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topics: [travel-and-places, design-and-art]
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tags: [hong-kong, public-housing, architecture, film-location, modernism, tai-hang]
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link: "https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/lai-tak-tsuen"
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linkText: "atlasobscura.com"
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description: "Lai Tak Tsuen in Tai Hang is the only cylindrical public rental housing ever built in Hong Kong — two twin-drum blocks from 1976, each cylinder wrapped around an open-air atrium that runs the full 27 storeys to the sky. It is also a working estate of 2,675 flats that now posts notices asking photographers to stay out."
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source: "Atlas Obscura"
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fromFind: "lai-tak-tsuen-estate"
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---
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import { Image } from 'astro:assets';
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import hero from './hero.jpg';
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<Image src={hero} alt="Fisheye view looking straight up the interior of one of Lai Tak Tsuen's cylindrical blocks: twenty-seven storeys of pale access balconies with blue-tiled rims form concentric rings around an open circular void, with a disc of bright sky at the centre." />
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*Lai Tak Tsuen, Causeway Bay. Photo by [Eugene Lim](https://www.flickr.com/photos/eugenelimphotography/16010239501/), via [Wikimedia Commons](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Lai_Tak_Tsuen.jpg) — [CC BY 2.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/).*
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> Lai Tak Tsuen is the only cylindrical public rental housing ever built in Hong Kong: two twin-drum blocks on a Tai Hang hillside, each cylinder ringed by access balconies around an open-air void that runs the full 27 storeys to the sky. It is also 2,675 flats that people live in, and the estate now posts notices asking visitors not to come in and photograph it.
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Start with what it actually is, because the popular description of it is wrong in ways worth fixing. Lai Tak Tsuen is a Hong Kong Housing Society estate — the Housing Society, not the Housing Authority, a separate self-financing non-profit — and it has three named blocks, not two. Tsuen Wing Lau, finished in May 1975, is a conventional 26-storey slab with a central corridor and 66 flats to a floor; nobody photographs it. The famous ones are Lai Kit Lau and Tak Chuen Lau, completed in **1976**, and each of them is not one cylinder but two: a *twin-drum* block, joined at the waist, 27 storeys, 20 flats per floor, 540 flats apiece. So the count is four cylinders and four atria across two blocks — the estate is numbered internally as eight blocks — and the hero image above is one drum, not the whole thing. The architect was Wong Cho Tong Architects & Engineers. Its three blocks were named so that their first characters spell out the estate: Lai–Tak–Tsuen, itself a tribute to Michael Wright (鄔勵德), the Public Works director whose "Wright Principle" — that every public flat gets its own kitchen and toilet, not shared ones — is the reason Hong Kong public housing looks like housing at all.
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The reason the atrium reads the way it does is that it is a circulation deck, not an ornament. These are balcony-corridor blocks: to reach your flat you walk an open gallery that rings the void, so the void is lined, floor after floor, with the same continuous band of parapet — pale render, blue-tiled rim, doors and windows behind it. Stack that twenty-seven times in a perfect circle and the eye stops reading it as storeys and starts reading it as a moiré, an optical rather than architectural pattern. The photograph above is a fisheye, which is a confession: the effect depends on seeing the whole cylinder at once, and the human eye standing at the bottom does not have that field of view. What you actually experience is narrower, dimmer and stranger than the picture — a shaft of daylight, a lot of laundry, and the sound of the estate arriving from every direction at once.
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The design was not whimsy. The Housing Society announced the estate in January 1969 and expected it in 1972; the hillside site defeated that, with site-formation problems and a landslide during construction pushing completion out by three years. On a steep, cramped Tai Hang slope, the drum does real work: it packs a lot of flats onto a small footprint, it puts a light-and-ventilation well at the centre of a very deep plan, and — the stated intent at the time — it swings far more of those flats around to face Victoria Harbour than a slab could. The trade-offs are equally real, and were noticed immediately: wedge-shaped rooms are miserable to furnish, the light well only meaningfully lights the upper floors, and the stairwells had to be triangles. It was, when it opened, the most expensive low-cost rental estate in the territory, and the flats in the two cylinders came with bathtubs — the top of the Housing Society's range in 1976. Its afterlife has been cinematic: Fruit Chan's *Dumplings* (2004), a Coca-Cola commercial, a TVB drama, and, in 2016, the atrium as the apartment block where the Major visits her mother in the live-action *Ghost in the Shell* (2017). That claim, at least, holds up.
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Which brings up the thing the pretty pictures leave out. Lai Tak Tsuen is not a monument, a museum, or a set — it is 2,675 households, many of them elderly, who have spent the last decade absorbing a steady trickle of people who came to photograph their hallway. The estate has responded the way you'd expect: coded gates on the entrances and posted notices reading, in plain terms, that entering or photographing the buildings without permission is not allowed. Tailgating a resident through the gate to get the shot anyway is a well-documented tourist move, and it is exactly the move not to make. The honest version of "how to visit" is therefore short: the estate is not open to you. The public streets around it are — Lai Tak Tsuen Road climbs right past the blocks and the exteriors are visible and photogenic from outside — and that is the visit. If you are there with a resident, or you are let in, the rules are the ones you already know: ground floor, quiet, no photographing people, nothing pointed into a flat, and don't linger. A place can be worth knowing about without being yours to walk into.
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Honest limitations, then. Access is restricted and getting more so, so the odds are you will look at Lai Tak Tsuen rather than stand in it. The interior is genuinely hard to photograph — the images that made it famous are wide-angle and taken from positions most visitors will never reach — and the reality at ground level is a working residential lobby. And the estate is an ordinary, ageing, well-used piece of 1970s public housing that happens to be round: the architecture press has never been entirely kind to it, the flats are small and awkwardly shaped, and the type went extinct for reasons (Singapore's semi-cylindrical Pearl Bank Apartments, its closest cousin, was demolished in 2020). What survives is a genuinely singular idea, executed once, at scale, for people who needed somewhere to live — and still doing that job fifty years on, which is more than most photogenic buildings can say. That is the reason to know about it, and the reason to leave it alone.
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---
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name: "Lunacy"
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subtitle: "A native player that runs the original Lunatic Fringe module, unchanged, on a modern Mac"
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date: 2026-07-14
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category: play
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topics: [macos-apps, history-and-archives]
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tags: [game, screensaver, retro, free, macos, emulation, preservation]
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link: "https://morphing.cloud/lunacy/"
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linkText: "morphing.cloud"
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description: "A free native Swift app that hosts an emulation core and plays Lunatic Fringe — the interactive After Dark screensaver module from 1991 — unmodified on macOS 13+. It is the player, not the game: you supply the module."
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source: "Daring Fireball — Linked List"
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fromFind: "lunacy"
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---
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> Lunacy plays *Lunatic Fringe* — the After Dark screensaver module that was secretly a space shooter — on a modern Mac, by running the original 1991 code rather than rewriting it. It is the player, not the game: Berkeley Systems still owns the module, so you have to bring your own copy.
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*The original module, unmodified, rendered by a Swift app on Apple silicon.*
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In 1991, Berkeley Systems shipped *More After Dark*, an expansion pack for the screensaver that everyone remembers for its flying toasters. One of the modules in it, written by Ben Haller, was not a screensaver at all. *Lunatic Fringe* looked like an idle animation of ships drifting through a starfield — until you toggled caps lock, at which point you took the controls and it became a single-player space combat game: Asteroids by way of *Maelstrom*, with a radar, power-ups, and a high-score chase. The detail that makes it more than a novelty is its damage model. Take hits and your weapons, radar, engines, and turn jets degrade individually and eventually stop working altogether; break off the fight and the ship slowly repairs itself, as long as it still has parts to spend. That is a real game, hidden inside the utility category that screensavers briefly were.
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Lunacy is a native Swift app that plays it. The distinction that matters — and the find's central claim, which holds up — is that this is **not a reimplementation**. Lunacy embeds an emulation engine and executes the module's original 68k code, unchanged, presenting it in a native macOS window. Nothing has been ported, redrawn, or reverse-engineered into new source: the thing on screen is the 1991 binary, driven by a modern host. This is the same approach as its sibling Afterglow, which runs original After Dark modules on the Musashi 68k CPU emulator. You are not running a lookalike, and you are also not running a whole emulated Macintosh — the game is emulated, the app around it isn't.
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It is also not the first attempt. Greg Parker's Fringe Player did this job through the PowerPC and early Intel years, and its 2007 release stopped at Mac OS X 10.5 Leopard; it has been dead on Apple's platforms for a long time. Lunacy is the successor, and it arrives with more than parity: full-screen mode, customizable keybindings, an optional CRT shader (confirmed — Gruber singles it out), and an optional global high-score leaderboard that the project's own page describes as "over-engineered (but optional) [...] for no good reason." Version 1.1.1 is a free direct download, a universal binary of about 3.8 MB, requiring **macOS 13 Ventura or later**. There is no App Store listing and no payment.
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The honest catch is the one the site leads with, and it is a legal constraint rather than a technical one. *Lunatic Fringe* is copyright 1991–1993 Berkeley Systems and cannot be redistributed. Lunacy ships **no game data whatsoever** — you must supply your own copy of the module, which shipped in *More After Dark* and *After Dark Deluxe*, and drag it onto the app at first launch. If you don't have a 30-year-old install disc in a drawer, sourcing that file is your problem and the project pointedly does not solve it. Two further caveats: the app is closed-source for now (the site's GitHub link reads "coming soon," and no repository exists yet), and it is very young — 1.1.1, one developer, no public issue tracker, no support channel.
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One clarification, because the names are almost cruelly similar: *Lunatic Fringe* was written by Ben **Haller**. Lunacy is the work of Jeff **Halter**, a different person entirely, and the more interesting fact about him is that this is not a one-off. Under morphing.cloud he is running a systematic salvage operation on dead Mac software: [Stacks](/find/stacks-hypercard/), a HyperCard player for modern macOS and the web, which this site captured three days ago; Afterglow, which promises 125+ original After Dark modules spanning releases 1.0 through 4.0; a web port of Cliff Johnson's *The Fool and His Money*; and Mobius, an actively maintained Hotline server written in Go. His Mastodon bio — "Drunk on 90's computing nostalgia, hacking on After Dark, HyperCard, and Hotline" — is an accurate job description. Lunacy is worth ten minutes on its own. As one exhibit in a person's ongoing project to make an entire lost software era executable again, rather than merely screenshotted, it's worth rather more.
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---
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name: "Shanling M0 Pura"
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subtitle: "A 35-gram hi-res player with no Wi-Fi, no app store, and nothing to subscribe to"
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date: 2026-07-14
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category: music
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topics: [music-and-sound, gadgets-and-toys]
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tags: [audio, dac, hi-res, no-streaming, dap, bluetooth, portable]
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link: "https://en.shanling.com/product/493"
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linkText: "en.shanling.com"
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amazonLink: "https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GZ8HXF48"
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description: "A 35.8g dedicated music player with dual Cirrus Logic CS43131 DACs, a microSD slot for ripped files, and no Wi-Fi or app store at all. $129. Balanced output needs an adapter Shanling sells separately."
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source: "Gear Patrol"
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fromFind: "shanling-m0-pura"
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---
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import { Image } from 'astro:assets';
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import hero from './hero.jpg';
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<Image src={hero} alt="The Shanling M0 Pura held between finger and thumb — an orange, matchbox-sized music player with a small square touchscreen showing a play icon and a volume wheel on its right edge." />
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*43.8 × 45 × 13.8mm. It is roughly the size of the thing it is obviously descended from.*
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> A $129 hi-res player the size of a matchbox: dual Cirrus Logic CS43131 DACs, one 3.5mm jack, a microSD slot, and no Wi-Fi anywhere in it. It cannot stream — not because Shanling forgot, but because there is no radio and no app store to put a streaming client in.
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The M0 Pura is the fourth generation of Shanling's smallest player, and the pitch has stayed the same across all four: 35.8g, a 1.54-inch 240×240 touchscreen, a volume wheel, and Shanling's own MTouch OS running on an Ingenic chip rather than a cut-down Android. There is no Wi-Fi. There is no app store. Music arrives on a microSD card — the only storage the device has, and it does not come with one — or over USB, or over Bluetooth. That is the whole surface area. Shanling sells it in black-and-orange, orange, and berry purple for $129, which is roughly what a month of a family streaming plan costs over a year and a half.
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We reviewed [Zenteek](/reviews/zenteek-music-player/) in May — a Mac player written "for the experience of owning your music rather than streaming it." The M0 Pura is the same argument with a battery in it. Both start from the assumption that you have files, that the files are yours, and that the software's job is to get out of the way between them and a DAC. The difference is that Zenteek makes a choice about how to treat your collection while sitting on a machine that can still open Spotify in another window. The M0 Pura removes the other window.
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The audio hardware is real, not decorative. Two Cirrus Logic CS43131 DACs drive a fully balanced signal path: 100mW into 32Ω single-ended (121dB SNR, 0.0004% THD+N), 250mW balanced (128dB SNR, 0.4Ω/0.8Ω output impedance — low enough for sensitive IEMs). It plays PCM to 32-bit/384kHz and native DSD128, and its format list is the omnivorous kind — DSD, DXD, APE, FLAC, ALAC, WAV, AIFF, DTS, MP3, WMA, AAC, OGG, M4A, AC3, plus CUE sheets and M3U playlists. Battery is 650mAh rated at 9.5 hours; Headfonics measured about 8h40m at real listening volume, with a ~75-minute recharge over USB-C. It will also do variable-speed playback (1×/1.25×/1.5×/2×) with A-B repeat, which makes it a serviceable podcast and audiobook player — a use the find didn't mention.
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Four things the find got slightly off, all worth knowing before you buy. **The balanced output is not a second jack.** There is exactly one 3.5mm port, and the 250mW figure only appears when you plug in Shanling's proprietary 3.5mm-to-4.4mm adapter — which is *sold separately*, alongside the leather and clip cases. Out of the box you get 100mW and a USB-C-to-A cable. **aptX is transmit-only.** Shanling's spec sheet lists Bluetooth 5.0 as LDAC/aptX/AAC/SBC when the M0 Pura is sending to headphones, but LDAC/AAC/SBC when it's receiving — no aptX inbound. **There is no MQA**, anywhere in the spec sheet; if you bought into that format, this is not the player. And **USB-DAC mode is capped lower than card playback** — 32-bit/192kHz and DSD128 when it's acting as your computer's sound card, versus 384kHz off the card.
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The honest limitation is the one the find celebrated, and it deserves a sharper edge. No Spotify. No Tidal, no Qobuz, no Apple Music, no on-device library sync of any kind: you rip the CDs, or you buy the files, or you have nothing to listen to. The screen is 240×240 — fine for album art and a track title, useless for anything else — and browsing a large collection through it is a chore that Shanling half-admits by shipping a companion phone app (Eddict Player, free, iOS and Android) whose SyncLink mode moves library browsing to your phone's screen. Which leads to the honest asterisk on "deliberately can't stream": Shanling's own marketing points out that in Bluetooth-receiver mode the M0 Pura "transforms into a Bluetooth DAC/AMP for use with any smartphone and their music streaming services." The device can't stream. It will very happily play your streams. The purity is in the hardware, not in the enforcement — and if that distinction doesn't matter to you, the thing you actually want is a dongle DAC, which costs less and does that one job.
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Reference in New Issue
Block a user